![]() ![]() Nine out of 10 times, coolant leaks are easy to find because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling from the leaky component. On applications that have a one-piece rear main oil seal instead of a split seal, the flywheel has to come off, which means pulling the transmission.Ĭoolant leaks can occur anywhere in the cooling system. Leaky rear main crankshaft oil seals are time consuming to replace because they involve dropping the oil pan and unbolting the rear main crankshaft support cap inside the engine. A special seal is usually required with a repair sleeve. If the surface of the crankshaft is worn, a slip-on repair sleeve can be installed to restore the surface. Do not pound on the pulley/balancer because this may damage it. To replace a leaky seal on the front of the crankshaft, the crank pulley/harmonic balancer must be removed before the seal can be pried out, which requires a gear puller. Some silicones contain chemicals that can be drawn through the engine’s PCV system and contaminate the oxygen sensor. When sealing up an oil leak, use a sealant that is a low volatile silicone approved for use with oxygen sensors. Some of these bolts are made of aluminum, and the threads can strip easily. If the bolts are reused, the pan and gasket will leak. The bolts for these pans are torque-to-yield and require replacement if the pan is removed. Some engines have bolts for the oil pan and valve covers that come with a torque spec and a torque angle spec. Use an accurate torque wrench and follow the vehicle manufacturer’s torque recommendations. Some gaskets have built-in steel grommets that limit how far the gasket is compressed when the bolts are tightened down. Never go outside of the recommendations if possible because you may be doing more harm than good on a modern engine.ĭo not overtighten pan cover bolts as this may crush and damage the new gasket. Most gaskets and sets will have instructions included. Even the use of rough sand paper can prevent a gasket from sealing.ĭifferent gaskets have different application recommendations and requirements. ![]() Never use abrasive discs to remove the old material. The soft surface can be damaged by aggressive scraping with metal scrapers. The first and most important job is to make sure the sealing surfaces are clean and flat. Sooner or later you will have to replace the leaky gasket or seal. Sometimes you can see oil dripping out while the engine is idling, but more often than not, the oil just slowly seeps out and causes grease buildup in the vicinity of the leak.Ĭrankcase oil additives can sometimes help slow a leak by causing aged gaskets and seals to swell, but no additive will stop a major leak or repair a broken gasket or worn seal. So, look for greasy stains around or below gasket seams and seals. When oil leaks out of an engine, it attracts dirt. Oil leaks can also occur if the crankcase is overfilled with too much oil, or the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is clogged, allowing pressure to build up inside the engine. Engine oil leaks occur most often at the valve cover and oil pan gaskets, timing chain cover and the front and rear crankshaft seals. Heat can also cause rubber (neoprene) gaskets and seals to harden and lose elasticity. As an engine ages, heat can cause cork gaskets to harden and shrink. The older the engine, the more likely it is to leak oil due to aging gaskets and seals. Oil can also produce blue smoke and unpleasant odors if it drips onto a hot exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe.Īfter six or seven years of service, the engine may start to leak oil. Oil leaking at the back of the engine may also cause the clutch to slip if the vehicle has a manual transmission. Oil leaks can leave greasy, ugly stains on your driveway, but the real danger is potential engine damage or failure if your engine runs low on oil. ![]()
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